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Pilgrim's Progress
During Holy Week this year (2009), I walked the final section of the Camino in Spain. The word "Camino" means "way" and is an ancient pilgrimage route that reaches its ultimate destination in the city of Santiago. I was part of a twenty two strong group that set out from Portomarin on a warm and sunny Sunday morning. Our group leader was Michael Grainger from Cork and he had made all the arrangements for us. Thus, hotel accomodation had been booked beforehand and our luggage was transferred every day. This meant that all we needed for each day's walking was a rucksack with basic supplies such as water, plasters, wipes etc.
That first day we walked twenty two kms. There was a coffee and a lunch break along the way. It was easy enough to get into a walking rhythm and the countryside was beautiful. The distance covered for the next two days was a mere 14kms per day. Feet do begin to get a little tired at this stage, however, and it is important to have thick walking socks and plasters for any tender or sore areas. The advantage of walking in a group is that the group energy keeps one going and there is great camaraderie and company to be enjoyed. We stayed in the towns of Melide and Arzua on these two nights. Hot baths were enjoyed and essential in the afternoons and there was a chance to explore the towns before a late Spanish dinner. The food and local wine were excellent and amazingly reasonable compared to Irish prices.
The final two days' walking were energetic and a sense of expectation built up as we came closer to the holy city. Energy levels were high and even the rain didn't deter us. One of my travelling companions remarked that walking a pilgrimage route was a metaphor for life. Giving up wasn't an option and all that was required was to put one foot in front of the other. We stayed in a countryside hotel in a place called Rua the night before we set off on the final 19km stretch. It was interesting to view the farmland and the beautiful red-roofed houses.
We arrived into the outskirts of Santiago on the afternoon of Holy Thursday. There is a big, long hill descending into the city. Strangely enough, we all marched along in silence for this final part of the journey. A feeling of solemnity, or maybe awe, had fallen upon us. As Michael led us into the huge square where the magificient Church of St. James is situated, the heavens opened. As well as the pouring rain, there was an outpouring of emotion from our group. Michael shook hands with each of us and congratulated us for having reached the end point of our pilgrimage. I felt quite moved and tearful.
That night we stayed in the charming world heritage city and we were free the next day to visit the Cathedral. Good Friday devotions were taking place and it was good to be part of the sacred atmosphere. The Cathedral is hugely impressive and the winding streets of the city feel ancient. We visited a Museum of Contemporary Art in the afternoon for a complete change of scene. That night we all got together again and enjoyed a final meal in an excellent restaurant. We were in celebratory mood as we toasted each other's success.
We flew back home the next day. We had had a wonderful week's holiday. In five days walking we had covered 89 km. It was a really enjoyable experience and I would highly recommend it. Walking in a group and having a leader to look after accommodation, meals, luggage transfer etc meant one could focus on the walking and not be weighed down.
It is said that the urge to go on pilgrimage seems to be innate in the human being. Whether one is impelled by a religious or a spiritual impulse or not, there is certainly something satisfying about walking a section of the Camino. There is a feeling of following in the footsteps of thousands who have walked this way from ancient times. There is nothing as simple as walking and even in a group one is alone with one's own thoughts and feelings. Each person has their own unique rhythm and must draw on their own inner resources to complete the journey.
Áine Monaghan
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